Do It Yourself (DIY)
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A) Loose Lay Matting: Is the Quickest method, if you have purchased our Matting previously, you will already know how durable this matting really is, so Skip to step 5, and go for it! B) Staple matting down: This can be done to Traffic areas and/or the perimeters with 16~18mm long, narrow Staples, you can purchase these Guns cheaply from Hardware stores, they fire "picture framing type staples"...if you have Timber flooring. c) Glue installation: You can apply a grid pattern using 5mm rows/beads of Liquid Nails purchased from most hardware's. This product can also be totally glued down, or apply a strip to where the high Traffic will be, but that makes lifting for cleaning imposable. Matting should be laid into all glue whilst wet (if glue comes through the matting use less), the weight of the matting is not sufficient to press the glue into the glue properly, you can grab a rectangle or square length of timber or use the back of a Broom, to applying enough pressure to push Wet/Tacky adhesive into the back of the matting. At this stage you can start walking all over the matting, just DON"T Vacuum or Drag items on the matting for 15~20 minutes, depending on the temperature. (If you happen to get a loose area, you can simply push the nozzle through the matting or cut between a few squares and apply more adhesive. Recommend Glue for full stick-down: Mapei Ultrabond ECO® 220, it comes in 15Ltr Drums ($90 drum), allow 2~3 Litres per Sq mt, there are many other suitable glues on the market. NB: You can also use Clear Silicon to glue it in place, but it will take several hours to dry ! |
5. Installing: If possible, start the first run by skirting the matting up against the longest wall or skirting boards and another wall if the other wall is at 90° angle, then these two walls will not need cutting, thus saving time, whilst leaving the remainder of a square up the opposite end or side wall, you now only need to cut the matting in net with a knife or shears.
If there are doorway drops on either of these skirted walls, it may be a lot easier to simply leave these drops or doorway areas until last, using off-cuts or single squares to fill these sections, is usually better.
6. Once fitted & cut-in, you may want to stop any possible fraying of the seagrass squares that were cut during installation, it is best to simply apply a 5mm bead of PVA glue (white woodwork glue) on Top & close to the wall/outer edge of the cut squares for a better finish, then using your finger or Toothbrush gently rub the PVA glue into the matting, if drying with little white pools, before it totally dries use the toothbrush to rub the PVA glue further into the matting. We recommend to use Exterior Aquadhere or Maxibond brands of PVA glue as the better quality PVA brands dry clearer, clean up your hands & tools with tap water afterwards.
NB: Exterior PVA glue is best should the area be getting wet & letting drying naturally.
7. Cleaning & Vacuuming: Many customers prefer to loose-lay Seagrass Matting, as it is easy to lift and vacuum beneath to remove sand & dust over time.
Cutting between the squares is fine to get to or replace worn areas without moving the furniture, as the Matting will lay back flat after vacuuming, simply use fishing line to tie squares back together if required.
JOINING:
Sewing Method: Lay the First Run the correct way up, then lay the next Rum OR Piece UPSIDE DOWN & simply Sew joins together OR tie enough knots together with Clear Fishing line if you have a Large Needle. Gluing Method: Use Liquid Nails OR PVA glue OR any clear Silicon to adhere the matting together to the floor. Heat Taping Method: If you know a carper layer/installer or you hire a Heat Iron from the likes of Kennards etc. you can heat tape the joins and fills together for a strong & quick method of joining, this obviously adds a cost to the fitting - but simply provides a quicker joining method. NB: If using a clear roof/bathroom type Silicon, it takes a lot longer to dry & you defiantly should NOT walk on the flooring during drying as it will weaken the bonding of the material to it's self &/or the sub floor, as silicon takes several hours to dry. |
Tools & Materials needed:
TOOLS:
MATERIALS:
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